Appenzell

Hiking – Ebenalp

Ebenalp plateau to Schafler (via Berggasthaus Ascher) to Lake Seealpsee (via Atlenalp) to Wasserauen

• Route:  Ebenalp plateau to Schafler (via Berggasthaus Ascher) to Lake Seealpsee (via Atlenalp) to Wasserauen
• All Trails: link
• Difficulty: Hard
• Distance: 12 km/7.5 miles
• Elevation Change: approx. 550m
• Estimated Time: 5 hours (+ 2 hours for breaks)
• Rating: 10/10
• Type of Trail: open loop (point to point)
• Getting to the start: train to Wasserauen and then take the Wasserauen-Ebenalp cable car to the top

This trail is a mountain hiking trail, with the majority of the trail being a rock path. I definitely recommend hiking boots for this reason, as it will help with footing and provide more support on the uneven path. For those who have hiking poles, these are highly recommended to provide support on the descents and well worth carrying if you have them as a lot of the trail is spent descending.

Start the walk by heading out from the cable car exit and look for the signs pointing towards Aescher. Some will start the hike directly to Schafler passing by Berggasthaus Ebenalp from here (and you can do this if you have other plans to visit Aescher), but if you’ve not seen the famous hut, I highly recommend doing a slight detour at the beginning to walk by this hut. It takes about 20 minutes from the top of the cable car station to reach Aescher. Be careful as there are electric fences along the initial path to keep the cows away from the path. Do NOT touch them!

On the way to Aescher, you’ll pass through the Wildkirchli Cave. The journey within the cave is quite short, but you will pass through it so be careful as it can be slippery in here. The cave is actually three caves linked together. You’ll then continue shortly along the path built into the side of the cliff and pass by a small chapel. From here you’ll then be able to see one of the oldest mountain huts in Switzerland, the famous Berggasthaus Aescher and it is a beautiful and impressive hut. Stop here for a coffee, or a beer depending on what you fancy! Then continue onward towards Schafler. Note there are bathrooms here to use.

The path continues onward, with signs along the way to help determine which direction you should be going. There are red and white trail markers along rocks on the way so you’ll know you’re on a trail. Follow the signs towards Schafler, which is another mountain hut. This part of the trail will be an ascent. You’ll walk along the cliffside and have sweeping views of the valley to your left. As you trek towards Schafler, your path with eventually meet with the path that others took directly from the Ebenalp gondola.

From this point, you’ll be able to see Berggasthaus Schafler. Continue your trek up and then enjoying the stunning view from above. Grab a table outside (hoping the weather is nice for this!) and take a break before continuing on your journey. This hut has bathrooms, and a re-fill tap inside to fill your water bottles up.

Continue onward towards Atlenalp. After you’ve left Schafler, climb up a bit further, noting this is your last real ascent on this path. Here you’ll have a very cool view! Note the next bit of the hike is not for those with a big fear of heights. You’ll start to climb down some stairs, with cables on the wall to use.

Shortly after the stairs, you’ll have an option to either take a VERY steep but direct path down to Atlenalp, or take a longe path along the ridge that descends slower. We opted for the longer path along the ridge as the hike down the steep path looked terrible without hiking poles and we were not in a rush. Additionally, the longer ridge path looked to have nice views (and it did!).

If you opt to take the longer path, then you’ll be walking along the edge, often with cables to hold for support. This part is definitely a bit nervewracking as it is a thinner path and has a steep cliff on one side. With this in mind, just proceed with caution and be aware. Do not be in a rush and pass cautiously with others on the trail. Additionally, note this would not be a good trail to try when it has recently rained as the rocks will be slippery.

You’ll eventually make a hairpin turn to reverse back in the opposite direction and continue to descend towards Atlenalp. Here you’ll be mainly walking through a grassier area, still on a rock and gravel path and may have some cows around you. This hut did not seem to be a full service hut, and instead a good spot to picnic if you’ve brought your own food. We opted not to stop here and continued on our descent down to Lake Seealpsee. You’ll continue through the grassier area for a bit longer, until you reach the forest. In this section you will be descending quickly. The descent is longer than ideal in this section and is made up of a lot of rock “steps” with cables on the wall to support you. The cables help make this section a lot more manageable, but your knees will definitely be feeling it after already descending for a while so take it slow and focus on getting down safely! As the section is in the forest, it is nice and shaded which is a good break from much of the path which is in the sunshine. After you exit the forest, you’ll be very close to reaching the lake. Just a bit longer on the descent and you’re walking next to the lake.

Plan to take a break at Berggasthaus Seealpsee or Berggasthaus Forelle. The lake is beautiful and we enjoyed gorgeous views from Berggasthaus Seealpsee. You’ll find people swimming here on nice days and taking row boats out onto the lake. Once you’re ready to go, you’ll follow the wider gravel path down to the base, where you’ll be back near the Wasserauen train station. This descent is easier than other parts of the trail, but if you’re anything like us, you’ll be quite tired of descending at this point and find this is still a bit challenging.

Upon arrival, you can head to the train if this was your mode of transit, or consider stopping for a post hike beer at Gasthaus Alpenrose like we did!

Note – for those who do not like to descend, this can be done in reverse, but you will be ascending a long way as well!

Huts passed along the way or in the close area

• Berggasthaus Aescher
• Berggasthaus Ebenalp
• Berggasthaus Schafler
• Berggasthaus Seealpsee
• Berggasthaus Forelle
• Gasthaus Alpenrose (at the base near Wasserauen train station)

Hiking – Saxer Lucke

Hoher Kasten to Saxer Lucke (via Staubern) to Lake Falensee (Bollenwees hut) to Lake Samitersee to Brulisau village

• Route: Hoher Kasten to Saxer Lucke (via Staubern) to Lake Falensee (Bollenwees hut) to Lake Samitersee to Brulisau village
• All Trails: Link
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Distance: 17 km/10.5 miles
• Ascent: approx. 600m
• Estimated Time: 6 hours (+2 hours for breaks)
• Rating: 9/10
• Type of Trail: open loop (point to point)
• Getting to the start: take a train to Weissbad and then the bus to the Hoher Kasten cable car. Ride the cable car to the top

This hike starts from the top of the Hoher Kasten cable car. There is a restaurant at the top here and lots of viewpoints so it’s a spot non-hikers will visit as well. Follow signs to Berggasthaus Staubern. The path will start by heading behind the cable car and along the cliffside which goes under the cable car. Continue onward and walk along the trail starting to capture the beautiful view from above of Lake Falensee. The views of the lake with the mountain backdrop are stunning. The path here is along a ridge, but is not too challenging or scary (much better than the ridge past Schafler for those who experienced this one). The path is quite shaded, which is nice if hiking in the heat and offers lots of views throughout the walk, both towards the lake but also opening up onto the other side of the ridge as well at times.

Berggasthaus Staubern is a lovely hut with panoramic views around the area. If you’re ready for a break, this is an excellent spot to enjoy a snack or a drink. Note there is a cable car which comes right to this hut which can be convenient for some as well if you’d like to hike a shorter distance (towards Hoher Kaster or towrads Saxer Lucke – both are nice!) or just come up for the view. There are bathrooms to use here if needed.

Continuing onward, follow signs towards Saxer Lucke and Bollenwees. This next part of the hike continues on the ridge trail. With the views remaining as incredible as before, you’ll soon approach the Saxer Lucke section with the stunning view of the dramatic slim rock formation. On a clear day, you’ll have panoramic views of the mountains around, river, lake and rolling hills. It’s breathtaking.

You’ll then follow the path towards Berggasthaus Bollenwees. This will commence your descent as you’ll take a series of switchbacks on a rock and gravel path. Although the descent can be a bit hard on your knees, this is very doable. It again would be nicer with hiking poles but doable without. Soon you’ll reach the base of the valley and approach the hut. This lake is a pleasant surprise with an absolutely unreal view behind the lake when standing at the hut. As this hut is a bit harder to reach, it will not be as busy and instead be one well frequented by hikers and climbers in the area. Plan to have lunch or a drink here and enjoy the serenity of the area. The hut has bathrooms and tap water to fill up your bottles. You may even want to take a swim in the lake!

Once you’re ready to go, you’ll be able take the long gravel road towards Lake Samitersee or continue past the hut and head down into a forest area. We opted for the forest path and descended in the trees. The descent was quick, meaning larger steps, but was nice in the shade. At the bottom of the forest, the path opened up again into another valley where you will continue on a flatter gravel path. You’ll pass areas where cows are grazing and a few houses on this walk before Lake Samitersee is in sight. As you approach this lake, you’ll notice it is even quieter than the other lake. On a nice day, you’ll find folks having a picnic around the lake, but there are no huts directly on the lake. The path continues on one side of the lake and you’ll have one final ascent before a grand descent.

The ascent ends at Berggasthaus Plattenbodeli where you can stop for a break if you like! The next and last part of the trail is a long descent down to Brullisau village. You can take part of the descent in a forest path, and I’d recommend this, because then you will take the rest of the descent on the white gravel road. Although somewhat easier to walk-on than some other surfaces, part of the walk is very steep. We started creating our own switchbacks on the wider path to help with the incline grade and also because our legs were quite tired from descending.

The walk will run next to a stream which gets heavier as you reach the bottom. The covered path will open up back into the sun as you reach a parking lot. From here, you’ll continue along the gravel road back until you reach the Hoher Kasten. From here, the bus stops right outside the cable car and you can comfortably sit down after a long hike!

Huts passed along the way or in the close area

• Berggasthaus Staubern
• Berggasthaus Bollenwees
• Berggasthaus Plattenbodeli

Hiking – Kronberg to Schwgalp

Kronberg to Schwgalp

• Route: Kronberg to Schwgalp
• Difficulty: Hard
• Distance: 12 km
• Elevation Change: approx. 600m
• Estimated Time: 3 – 4 hours
• Rating: 8 / 10
• Type of Trail: out and back
• Getting to the start: take the train to Jakobsbad and then cross the tracks to catch the Jakobsbad – Kronberg cable car to the top

From the top of the cable car, follow signs to Schwgalp. You are immediately greeted with stunning views of the mountains ahead of you. The beginning of the trail is a large descent on a grassier path until you reach a forest area. The grassier path is easier to walk on than some of the rockier paths and this can be done in good walking shoes instead of hiking boots if preferred.

Then you’ll have some rolling paths through the forest. These can be a bit muddy as the path is largely shaded. Once you’re through the trees, you’ll continue onward up towards a hut, which has spots to sit and purchase a snack or drink.

From the hut, follow sign to Schwgalp. The next part moves onto a more concrete path, switching back to a gravel path before you arrive in Schwgalp. Schwgalp is the base of the gondola which goes all the way up to Mt. Santis. You’ll have to purchase a cable car ticket for about 60 CHF for a roundtrip journey. At the base of the cable car, there is a hotel and a restaurant where you can use bathrooms or sit for a meal.

We did not have time to make the journey up to Mt. Santis, but would be nice for those whom do. Instead, we turned around immediately and retraced our steps back to the Kronberg. Follow signs back to Kronberg. The end of the hike is a good workout as you’ll be ascending back to the cable car. Keep in mind you’ll have a nice break with a beautiful view waiting for you at Berggasthaus Kronberg!

Huts passed along the way or in the close area

• Berggasthaus Kronberg

Hiking – near Appenzell

If looking for hikes around Appenzell, consider trying out one of the hiking paths and visiting one of the below huts for a mid hike break.

Huts near Appenzell:

• Berggasthaus Scheidegg
• Berggasthaus Ahorn
• Berggasthaus Lehmen

Hiking – more huts

The Appenzell region has many huts throughout it, which are great for a break along the trail, or for those looking to do hut to hut hiking, stay overnight. We did not manage to make it to these huts in our long weekend trip, but are ones we’d want to check out next time.

Some of these are further into the hiking paths and therefore can be harder (yet not impossible) to hit with day hikes. They can be especially helpful for overnight stays!

Other huts in the region (for our next trip!)

• Berggasthaus Tierwis
• Berggasthaus Rotsteinpass
• Berggasthaus Alter Santis
• Berggasthaus Meglisalp
• Berggasthaus Mesmer

Alternative hiking options:

• Ebenalp to Schafler to Santis
• Wasserauen up to Lake Seealpsee and back down
• Wasserauen up to Lake Seealpsee and then up to Ascher taking the Ebenalp gondola down (or in reverse so the trail is largely downhill)

Visit a lake

The region is known for having three nice lakes: Lake Seealpsee, Lake Falensee, and Lake Samitersee.

Lake Seealpsee

Located a climb away from Wasserauen, this lake is frequented by many as it is the most accessible. It is up a gravel road, which is definitely a climb so do not underestimate this walk, but you’re rewarded by the beautiful alpine lake with a mountain backdrop. There’s a nice hut right on the lake here to sit for a meal or drink.

For those who like to swim, bring your swimming suit and plan to jump in the lake. You’ll also see people taking row boats out onto the water to enjoy the views from the middle of the lake.

We saw the most families and general variety of personnel at this lake because it was easier to get to than the other two.

Lake Falensee

Taking the spot as my favorite lake, this lake is hidden from the average person and requires some more hiking to reach the lake. Berggasthaus Bollenwees sits right next to the lake, and the patio offers a stunning view out at the lake. The peaceful area is frequented by other hikers, but as it requires more hiking to reach, it’s not as busy as Lake Seealpsee. People do swim in this lake too, so if you fancy cooling off, take a dip in the lake and enjoy swimming in the alpine paradise.

Lake Samitersee 

The third and final lake is found not far from Lake Falensee and therefore these two are often visited together. From the ridgeline above, overlooking this lake has a phenomenal view. The backdrop of the mountains when observing this lake from above are breathtaking. The lake itself is quite quiet. It seems marshier around it than the others, and is also not as accessible as Lake Seealpsee.

For me, this lake was absolutely beautiful from above, but could be skipped at the base level. We walked by it at the end of our hike, and then passed Berggasthaus Plattenbodeli which is a bit off the lake and does not have a view of the lake, but is a good spot to take a rest if needed. From this spot, it is quite a steep and somewhat long walk down to the base (perhaps it felt worse after a long hike the day before and a long walk beforehand though too!).

Berggasthaus Ascher

This famous mountain restaurant and hut is a wooden guesthouse built into the Alpstein mountains on a cliffside. Reaching the guesthouse is possible for most whom are able to walk on some uneven ground for 20 minutes. Simply take the Wasserauen-Ebenalp cable car up to the top and follow signs for 20 minutes to Ascher. The walk is slightly down hill and passes through the Wildkirchli cave.

For those who want more of a challenge, you can hike up from the base towards Berggasthaus Ascher, noting there are different route options to the guesthouse.

Cycling

Not one we took advantage of on this trip, but there are nice paths to cycle in the area (road cycling, gravel, or mountain biking). You can bring your own bike or look to rent in the area.

Appenzeller Brewery

Just across the river from the town center, the Appenzeller brewery is a nice spot to visit. Most of the beer in the region comes from this brewery. You can stop in to the shop for a visit, grab a drink, or try a flight of beer to taste their different products.