Bernese Oberland

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Logistics

Getting There

To get to the Berner Oberland mountain region, you will likely need to first fly to Geneva or Zurich depending on your prior destination. From either city, you will then need to take transportation to reach the mountains. Zurich is closer to this region if trying to pick the Swiss hub with a shorter onward journey. Since the travel from the cities to the mountains takes some time, you may want to consider spending a night in the city before making the trek out to the mountains.

  • Geneva: If you start in Geneva, the likely route will begin by taking a train from Geneva to Bern (about 2 hours). Upon arrival in Bern, you will switch trains and catch one from Bern to Interlaken Ost (about 1 hour)
  • Zurich: if you start in Zurich, the likely route will begin by taking a train from Zurich to Bern (about 1 hour) and then transferring to a train from Bern to Interlaken (about 1 hour)

Your journey from Interlaken then largely depends on what town you selected for accommodations as this is a key split point into different valleys and areas. A few key valleys in the Bernese Alps include Lauterbrunnen, Lütschental (Grindelwald), Kander, Haslital, Simmental, Engstligen and Lauenen.

Each valley likely has a few different towns, either at the base or at a higher altitude on the side of the mountains.

Lauterbrunnen

From Lauterbrunnen, one may stay in the town itself or venture up to Wengen, Murren, or Gimmelwald. We stayed in Murren and there are two main options to get to Murren from Lauterbrunnen. One option is to take the bus from Lauterbrunnen to Stechelberg followed by the cable car to Murren. The second option is to take a cable car from Lauterbrunnen to Grutschalp and a train from the top of the Grutschalp cable car to Murren.

Lütschine (Grindelwald)

Another common place to be based for a few days in the Bernese Alps is Grindelwald. Take the train from Interlaken onward to Grindelwald to access this valley. Over the last few years, this area has grown in popularity and thus can expect more tourism here. However, it is still significantly less than in Interlaken.

Kander

When continuing to the Kander valley, there’s trains into Kandersteg. This town is quieter than others in the area, and provides access to Oeschinensee, a gorgeous lake in the area.

Getting Around

Download the SBB phone application as it helps you navigate the area a lot so you know which train connections to take and when to catch them.

Train

There are a variety of passes you should look into if you are going to this area of Switzerland. The primary way you get around between towns and to different places on the mountains is by train and cable cars. With this in mind, you either can purchase tickets each time you use the train, or you can buy a multi day pass that covers most of your transportation.

Swiss Pass

The Swiss Pass covers all travel on regular trains, buses and boats. It allows you to access most of the towns (Interlaken, Lauterbrunnen, Murren, Grindelwald, Gimmelwald, Wengen). For the more scenic trains and cable cars, the Swiss Pass will cover part of the cost. It does not include all the high lifts in the Berner Oberland region so you must look at a map to see what is actually included. Any of the lifts that aren’t included then get a 25% or 50% discount with the Swiss pass, still making it worth it.

Car

Another option is renting a car and using the car to drive from your beginning destination into the mountains. Keep in mind that some of the mountain towns are car free so if you opt to stay in one, you will leave your car at the base of the valley and travel up to the town via cable car or train.

Accommodations

When visiting the Bernese Alps, there’s a variety of different choices to pick from so where you choose to stay heavily depends on your preference and desires for the trip

Interlaken

This will be the first town you hit when taking the train. It is between two lakes (Lake Brienz and Lake Thun). It’s the largest town of the ones noted here. However, if you are traveling to this region, you are likely going here to see the mountains and have some active days. This area is quite touristy and can feel quite busy. While it’s a location nicely accessible to different valleys in the Bernese Alps, it would not be where I recommend staying.

Getting to Interlaken: Trains stop here at Interlaken Ost and Interlaken West. These stations are a few minutes away by train and about 20 minutes by foot. Interlaken Ost is the larger station and it is where the transfers happen to travel further into the valleys and up the mountains. The station also has luggage storage.

Lütschental (Grindelwald) Valley

Grindelwald

Larger village at the bottom of the mountains after veering left on train when traveling from Interlaken. It is the highest point on this side that allows cars (good if you have a car, but also means tour buses come here so its busier). Similar to Lauterbrunnen, but slightly bigger and more touristy, there are many restaurants, stores, grocery stores, and hotels. This is another good spot if you like it a bit busier, but want to be in the mountains past Interlaken.

Romantik Hotel Schweizerhof (Grindelwald): A rustic looking hotel, this charming hotel is a great base when staying in Grindelwald. Located just a five minute walk from the train station, enjoy jaw dropping views of the Eiger from the hotel.

Getting to Grindelwald: Take the train from Interlaken Ost to Grindelwald (takes about 20 minutes)

Lauterbrunnen Valley

Lauterbrunnen

Small village at the bottom of the mountains after veering right on the train coming from Interlaken. It is the highest point on this side that allows cars (good if you have a car, but also means tour buses come here so it will be busier). Lauterbrunnen has many restaurants, stores, grocery stores, and hotels. It is a good spot if you have a car, like it a little busier or do not want to continue to take transportation up to the smaller towns.

Getting to Lauterbrunnen: Catch the train from Interlaken Ost to Lauterbrunnen (takes about 20 minutes)

Murren

Found on the mountainside of the Lauterbrunnen valley, it is a very small town that does not allow cars. There are only about 400 permanent inhabitants but 1000-2000 beds for guests. The town only takes about 10 minutes to walk from one side to the other. There are a series of hotels and guesthouses, a grocery store (Coop), restaurants, and some stores.

Hotel Edelweiss – Quaint hotel tucked away in the little town of Murren. With exceptional views and a cozy atmosphere, it’s a lovely hotel.

Getting to Murren: Take a train from Interlaken Ost to Lauterbrunnen. At Lauterbrunnen you have two options (I would recommend the first but it depends on how much luggage you have and where you are staying in Interlaken):

  • Option 1: Take the cable car from Lauterbrunnen up to Grutschalp (takes about 3 minutes and runs relatively frequently; every 20-30 minutes). Then, once you get to the top of the cable car, there is a train about 20 meters from the cable car exit. You take this train to Murren (takes about 20 minutes but it’s along the edge of the mountain so it has some nice views). At this point, you’ve arrived in Murren. Like I mentioned earlier, you can walk the entire town in 10 minutes so even if your hotel isn’t right next to the train station, I would recommend doing this option. The cable car is attached to the train station, both in Grutschalp and in Lauterbrunnen so it’s an easy route
  • Option 2: Take a bus to Stechelberg from Lauterbrunnen (takes about 10 minutes) cable car. Then take the cable car up to Murren. Here you arrive on the opposite side of town as the train station.
Wengen

Found on the mountainside of Lauterbrunnen valley, on the opposite side as Murren. Like Murren, this town also does not allow cars. Wengen is larger than Murren, but also has the quaintness of being a small mountain town with no cars. After having visited, I would happily stay in Murren or Wengen as both provided the mountainside perks where the towns had enough to offer. Murren does have the slightly nicer view.

Getting to Wengen: From Interlaken Ost, take a train from Interlaken Ost to Lauterbrunnen. From Lauterbrunnen, take one final train up to Wengen (about 15-20 minutes).

Gimmelwald

This is a VERY small town, the smallest of the ones listed here. If you like that, this is a good place for you.

Getting to Gimmelwald: Take the bus from Lauterbrunnen to Stechelberg followed by the cable car to Murren and another cable car from Murren to Gimmelwald. Both cable car rides are short (just a few minutes and the bus is about 10 minutes)

Kander Valley

Kandersteg

The small charming town of Kandersteg is quieter, and is a great place to be based for a few days when exploring the mountains. A highlight in this area is getting out to hike to one of Switzerland’s many beautiful lakes – Oeschiensee.

Waldhotel Doldenhorn (Kandersteg): A lovely hotel nestled about a 5 minute drive from the Kandersteg train station. While not located right in the town center, it is a beautiful hotel to stay at when visiting the area. The rooms are spacious and have views right out onto the mountains. There’s a nice restaurant in the hotel, as well as a convenient spot just across the street. It’s easily accessible to nice hiking and cycling in the area and also has spa facilities available for guests. Don’t miss the cold plunge pool!

Getting to Kandersteg: From Bern, the journey by train to Kandersteg is about an hour, passing through the towns of Thun and Spiez on the way with views of Lake Thun and Lake Brienz.

Things to do and see

Interlaken

The town of Interlaken is located between two lakes, Lake Brienz and Lake Thun. The lakes are beautiful and provide access to a variety of activities including swimming, cycling, running, walking, kayaking and more.

Within Interlaken, one can check out a nice viewpoint over the lakes at Harder Kulm. Catch the funicular up to the top and walk over to the viewpoint to observe the mountains and both lakes in Interlaken. One can also hike up, but not necessarily worth the hike as the hike does not have many “viewpoints” and there are many better hikes in the area.

Lake Brienz & Lake Thun

Cycling the lakes

Both these lakes provide gorgeous view and mainly flat terrain on their perimeter. Follow the road and enjoy a scenic bike ride along part of either of these lakes.

Swimming

These two lakes are separated by the town of Interlaken, and show-off a gorgeous blue/green color. On a warm day, the water calls your name to take a swim.

Lauterbrunnen Valley

Lauterbrunnen

Larger town located at the bottom of the mountains to walk around and enjoy the scenic surroundings

Murren

Small town on the side of the mountain. Somewhere great to stay, but not necessary to visit if you are not staying here.

Wengen

Small town, comparable to Murren, but on the opposite side of the Lauterbrunnen valley.

Gimmelwald

Tiny town close to Murren

Trummelbach Falls

Group of waterfalls fed by glaciers in Lauterbrunnen. These falls collect the water from Eiger, Monch, and Jungfrau alone. Thus, they are very powerful. There are 10 viewpoints here (but you must pay a few dollars to get in). There is an elevator that allows you to skip about 4-5 of the viewpoints. I would only recommend the elevator if you are immobile OR if you do not want to walk up and CAN walk down. However, it’s worth seeing all 10 viewpoints. The sheer power the falls is very impressive and cool

Getting to Trummelbach Falls:

You can walk there from the town pretty easily (45 minute walk) or take a bus. We first went to the Staubbach falls and then walked to Trummelbach falls. We spent about 1 hour here. The walk is easy and nice to do one way, but not necessary to do both directions. The bus is included in the Swiss Pass if you have it and only takes 5-10 minutes to get back to the center of Lauterbrunnen.

Staubbach Falls

Falls visible from Lauterbrunnen. If considering seeing Trummelbach falls, start with Staubbach Falls as Trummelbach is far more impressive. These are nice falls that you can walk up “behind” after about a 10 minute walk up some stairs and ramps. It is a nice, quick stop and can be done on the way to Trummelbach Falls. The base of the falls are about a 10 minute walk from the center of town.

Lütschine Valley

Grindelwald

Comparable to Lauterbrunnen, just in a different valley, this town is larger and at the bottom of the mountains. It is an area that has been growing in popularity, and therefore the town has grown in size and also responds to the growing tourism in the area. With this in mind, during the day, it can feel busy with tourists and day-trippers, but is in a great location to base yourself for a few days when looking to explore the mountains further whether it’s on foot, climbing, cycling, paragliding or another adventurous activity

Grindelwald First

Another summit in the Bernese Alps that many visitors travel to the top of to enjoy the views and check out the activities. First can be accessed by taking a cable car from Grindelwald to the summit (lasting about 25 minutes). At the top, there are a variety of activities to check out including mountain car riding, a thrill walk, and zip lining.

Hike from Bussalp to Gasthaus Waldspitz to Bachalpsee to First

  • Difficulty: Moderate
  • Distance: 6.5 miles / 14 km
  • Elevation change: 3000 feet / 900m
  • Estimated time: 5 – 7 hours (including breaks)
  • Rating: 10 / 10
  • Type of trail: Loop
  • Take the bus from Grindelwald town up to Bussalp. This bus does not run frequently, and therefore it is important to time your departure accordingly. The bus takes a road up above Grindelwald that is only open to locals and the bus. As you journey on the bus, you will understand why it is not open to all.
  • Start by hiking through alpine fields with views right in front of you
  • Continue onwards towards Gasthaus Waldspitz which is a perfect place to enjoy lunch after about 5 miles of hiking. The rosti here is delicious and pairs nicely with a beer in the sunshine
  • Next you’ll start climbing again to gain some more elevation and head to Lake Bachalpsee, a stunning lake in the Swiss Alps. With a backdrop of the mountains, on low wind days, there’s a beautiful mountains reflection in the lake. This is an absolutely incredible view
  • From Lake Bachalpsee, it’ll be a moderate descent towards First where there’s a gondola to take down the mountain. This part of the hike is often busier as many tourists will take the gondola up from Grindelwald to First and either check out the cliff walk in First, make the walk out to Lake Bachalpsee, or try some of the other activities like ziplining available up here.

Kander Valley

Kandersteg

The small charming town of Kandersteg is quieter, and is a great place to be based for a few days when exploring the mountains. A highlight in this area is getting out to hike to one of Switzerland’s many beautiful lakes – Oeschiensee.

Hike to Oeschinensee

  • Difficulty: Moderate
  • Distance: 6 miles / 9.5 km
  • Elevation change: 1700 feet / 520m
  • Estimated time: 3.5 – 4.5 hours (including breaks)
  • Rating: 10 / 10
  • Type of trail: Loop

Directions:

  • Take Kandersteg – Oeschinensee gondola up to start the hike
  • Walk towards Oeschiensee (approx. 25 minutes) on a reasonably flat path
  • Stop at Arva – Chalet am Oeschinensee where you’ll have the first views of the stunning alpine lake for a snack or coffee before continuing onward
  • Continue onward with a flat path along the lake and then begin to climb as you ascend towards Unterbargli Hut
  • Pass by the Unterbargli Hut and continue on your ascent until the path starts to flatten out
  • Once you approach Oberbarli, you’ll veer left back towards the lake and then traverse the along the side of the mountain with views overlooking Oeschinensee
  • There will be a very nice viewpoint over the water, and you’ll continue onward past the lake and back towards the starting point
  • Take the gondola back down the mountain to close out the hike

Route map:

Jungfraujoch

Known as the Top of Europe as it connects the highest peaks and provides a beautiful viewpoint. This is a spectacular spot if it is clear at the top, but if not clear, it is not worth the expensive price per person. Snow covers the mountain tops year-round. We spent 3 hours up here (largely because we had to due to the train availability), but was a perfect amount of time to explore all the top had to offer.

Keep in mind that there are limited spots on the final train traveling from Kleine Scheidegg to Jungfraujoch. Thus, this requires a seat reservation (not assigned seat, but just assigns you a specific train time). Some would recommend buying this in advance. However, we purchased tickets the day of with no problem in mid July. We had to wait a bit as the earlier to midday trains were already filled up, but we decided to walk around Wengen.

I would recommend getting up early and purchasing tickets if the day looks nice. There are live cameras up at the viewpoints to observe what the current climate is so look this up before you go. For us, it was very cloudy in the valley, but was great up top. However, the next day was the opposite.

The food options are limited, expensive and not great at the top so consider bringing snacks or working up an appetite.

Getting To Jungfraujoch:

The route to get to Jungfraujoch depends largely on where you are staying. If you have the Swiss Pass, you will pay for everything after Wengen. Plan to get yourself to Wengen (whether you are staying there or in a nearby town). Then, take the train (or continue on the train past Wengen if you get on it at Lauterbrunnen) up to Kleine Scheidegg. Once at Kleine Scheidegg you will have to get off and transfer to the train that takes you to Jungfraujoch. This is the train you need a seat reservation for. It is a long red train that runs every 30 minutes and takes about 30 minutes to get to the top (the highest train station in Europe).

There are two stops along the way. The first stop is still outside the mountain so some people choose to hike to this point and then take the train. Then the train enters the mountain where about 60% of the train ride takes place. Here there is also one stop at Eismeer. It stops here for 5 minutes on the way up for individuals to get off the train and look out at the beautiful mountains through the window. Passengers then get back in the train and finish the journey to the top.

The trip takes about 1.5 hours from Wengen plus any additional time it takes you to get to Wengen. (Some may think that this would provide a good reason to stay in Wengen, which is true. However, keep in mind that there are a few other high altitude lifts (especially Schilthorn) that are easily accessible from other side. Thus, wherever you stay – aside from Interlaken—will likely help you save time on some journeys and add time on others.

Allow at least ¾ of the day for this trip

Jungfraujoch Highlights:

  • Eismeer Station – Underground railroad station on the train trip from Kleine Scheidegg up to the Top of Europe, also called the Sea of Ice. The train stops here for five minutes for passengers to get out and look out at the view on the way to Jungfraujoch
  • The Sphinx observation deck – Elevator out of mountain to observation deck
  • Alpine Sensation – A giant snow globe and then some history about the train and train station creation
  • Ice Palace – Ice cave with many ice sculptures
  • Lindt Swiss Chocolate Heaven – Small Lindt store but discounted prices
  • Outside Snow Area – One of the stops allows you to go outside and walk around on the snow with more nice views
  • Snow Fun – An opportunity to go sledding, tubing, snowboarding/skiing, or ziplining up high. This is pretty expensive, but can be good entertainment especially for children. Regardless, it is worth going outside here and checking it out as we liked walking the beginning portion of the Monchsjoch Hutte path.
  • Monchsjoch Hutte – Highest altitude hut in Switzerland. This is about a 45-minute walk from the main area. The walk is completely through the snow so if not dressed in proper boots (or even if you are), then it is a slow walk. We did not do this, but we did walk about ¼ mile up from the “Snow Fun” area. There are beautiful views without the crowds and without the barriers. You must be careful and should stay on the path as there are many places near the path that may be very deep cracks simply covered by snow.

Schilthorn

Summit in Bernese Alps that one can hike up to or take a series of cable cars up to reach the top. If you are up for the challenge, you can take the hike up and use the cable car to get down so you get the rewarding views, but can save some time

Allow approximately 2-3 hours for this trip (of course this also depends on where you are staying) and more time if you plan on hiking. If starting at base level, there are three different lifts to take you to the top. First from Stechelberg to Murren, then Murren to Birg, and finally from Birg to Schilthorn (Piz Gloria).

Birg

If starting at base level, this is the 2nd stop on the Cable car. The cable car rides are quick, only a few minutes, and run about every 20 minutes. This stop has a few specific items to hit before going to the top.

  • Skyline Walk – View over the mountains, on a platform that allows you to see what’s below
  • Thrill Walk – Cliff side walk where you can always see below you due to the criss-cross floor. One portion is transparent so you have a clear view of what is beneath you. On this thrill walk, there is also a tight rope (over a safety net of course so very safe), a tunnel, and a few other unique pathways. This was pretty cool, but anyone with a fear of heights will not enjoy the Thrill Walk.

Piz Gloria – The peak and final cable car stop, taking just a few minutes to reach from Birg and runs every 20-30 minutes.

  • Panoramic View – There is a gorgeous 360 panoramic view at the top
  • Bond World 007 – James Bond “museum” created as some scenes for a Bond movie were shot on Schilthorn
  • Schilthorn – Piz Gloria 360° – Restaurant at the top of the peak with beautiful views

Mannlichen

Summit that can be reached from lift in Wengen or from lift in Grindelwald. From the cable car station, it then takes about 15 minutes to walk to the summit

Paragliding

Paragliders can be seen in many different areas of Switzerland, enjoying a true bird’s eye view of the mountains and small towns. Many different companies take visitors out for tandem paragliding trips. We used Airtime Paragliding which had an office location in Lauterbrunnen.

Food and Drinks

Hotel Edelweiss

Dinner

Murren

Hotel restaurant with very good food. The steak option comes out on a hot stone and you cook the meat to your liking. The restaurant also has a beautiful view over the mountains.

Visit their website


Stagerstubli

Dinner

Murren

Small restaurant in Murren, good for an easy bite

Visit their website


Umbellifer Restau

Dinner

Kandersteg

The restaurant within Hotel Doldenhorn offers a 5-course tasting menu, or an a la carte option. The food here is delicious, staff are helpful and kind, and overall experience is nice. Visit here when staying atHotel Doldenhorn for an evening meal.

Visit their website


Landgasthof Ruedihus

Dinner

Kandersteg

Across the street from Hotel Doldenhorn, the Ruedihus hosts a cozy Swiss style restaurant. With a wooden rustic interior, pick from raclette, fondue or something simpler depending on your cravings.

Visit their website


Restaurant Gaststübli

Dinner

Grindelwald

Charming Swiss restaurant with cozy indoor and nice patio seating at the Romantik Hotel Schweizerhof. The service is relaxed, allowing you to enjoy a slower pace meal and the food is delicious.

Visit their website


BaseCamp

Dinner

Grindelwald

Casual restaurant with a nice outdoor patio. Perfect for an evening when you want a change from fondue, and instead feel like indulging on a burger or similar.

Visit their website


Arva – Chalet am Oeschinensee

Lunch

Oeschinensee

Chalet / hutte sitting right on the edge of Oeschinensee Lake. It’s a perfect place to stop for a bite to eat or drink. Do not miss the apple strudel, it’s phenomenal!

Visit their website


Gasthaus Waldspitz

Lunch

Grindelwald

Mountain hut found far above the town of Grindelwald. It’s about an hour walk from Lake Bachalpsee for those planning a visit here. The hut is a great place for an afternoon snack and drink. The views are unparalleled and well worth a stop.

Visit their website


Other Notes

Duration

Plan 7-10 days out to enjoy the Bernese Oberland region. There’s an immense amount to do and see in this area of Switzerland. As someone who loves the mountains, this is an area I’d love to continue visiting, and spend significantly more time exploring. With that in mind a week long trip is a great way to start to see the beautiful area. Since it takes more effort to reach than a simple flight into Switzerland, it’s definitely an area that is not recommended for a weekend trip unless you’re in the area already.

All the transportation and little towns might sound complicated before visiting and when trying to plan a trip, but once you arrive there, you get an idea about how it all works pretty quickly.

Time of year

Summertime in Switzerland is the best time to visit. For chances of the best weather, June through August are typically recommended, and even carrying into September. Going too early in May or sometimes even June (if it’s been a colder winter) can mean trails still have snow on them. July would be the most ideal time for chances of the best weather while also avoiding the big crowds which tend to come in August when a lot of Europe is on holiday. July can be higher temperatures, which can be tough especially as places do not have air conditioning, but being at higher altitude in the mountains can help ease the temperatures. September and even into October CAN be okay, but you’ll risk the weather a bit more so be prepared and check in advance.

Elevation

Consider allowing some time to adjust to elevation. Everyone adapts differently to changes in elevation, and you may find it challenging to do hike in the first 24-48 hours of your arrival. Hydrate, get enough sleep, and listen to your body. The distances or climbs may not look too challenging, but can always be tougher at elevation if your body is not used to the thinner air.

Weather

As you’re in the mountains, the weather can change quickly and be challenging to predict. Download the MeteoSwiss weather app to have a more accurate way of tracking weather in the area and forecasts for the day. Always pack layers and rain gear in case the weather does change drastically.

Language

Switzerland has four languages: German (often called Swiss German which is slightly different), French, Italian and Romansh (a more local language). German is spoken most widely across the country, but many living in Switzerland will be able to speak a few languages.

Currency

Switzerland is on the Swiss Franc, different than other countries in Europe. It’s helpful to have some cash incase you visit a spot which is cash-only.

Expenses

There’s no hiding it that Switzerland is an expensive country to visit. With this in mind, there are ways to help keep the trip more affordable for those who would not like to break the bank while traveling. If you’re not worried, you can stop reading here and enjoy the vacation with the expectation all things will cost you more than other trips.

To help keep your expenses down when visiting Switzerland, here are a few tips:

  • Public transportation: plan to use the trains and buses to get around. They are reliable and enable you to avoid needing expensive taxis to get around
  • Accommodations with breakfast: book a b&b which offers free breakfast in the price or a place with a kitchen where you can cook your own meals
  • Grocery: buy groceries so you can pack your own lunch and snacks while out hiking